包車為期六天的帕米爾高原之旅今天開始。坐上車後司機說要到附近小鎮他侄子家拿東西,到了之後問我們可不可以帶他侄子一起當他助理,面對這忽然的要求我們一開始覺得沒啥問題,但再仔細想想覺得不妥便拒絕了,他若真覺得有必要也應該事先說明,不是當天出發了才說。一路上看到很多雪崩,道路兩旁堆起高高的雪,高原上的光照特強,反射在白雪上讓人完全睜不開眼睛,還好有帶太陽眼鏡。

中午在山上某個偏避餐廳用餐加洗溫泉,很難想像這麼偏避附近空無一物的地方有人提供簡單餐飲,雖然說就是兩顆蛋和一片大餅和兩杯茶,在又冷又餓的狀況,已經很感激了。這個小餐廳附設溫泉,或者應該說是溫泉附設小餐廳。出發前我們問過司機有沒有機會可以洗澡,他說有溫泉可以洗澡,在沒水沒電的山上,我們得趁有這機會好好親近水一下。

晚上睡在Bulunkul ((一個有湖(冬天結冰)的小鎮,偏遠到不食人間煙火))的一間homestay,專供帕米爾高原的旅客中途休息,傍晚五點抵達後司機就不見了,我和多福到附近走走,找那已經結冰的湖,遇到很多髦牛成群結隊地剛好要回家,他們心生警戒地停下腳步盯著我們看,我們在動物市場見識過髦牛力氣可已有多大,很自覺地閃邊站,越退越遠,他們才又起步踏上歸途離去。

homestay主人非常友善,晚餐特別準備魚招待我們,只是我們看著那些小小的魚在熱油鍋內炸了至少半小時,我們也坐在那聞了半小時的油煙,沒有意外地我和多福兩人半夜都胃痛。晚上我們就和主人一家子和司機一起睡在有限的空間裡,半夜聽著鼾聲和忍受著胃痛,聞著還未散去的炸魚油煙味,一夜未能成眠。

Starting our 6 days Pamir Highway round trip. Great landscape and we saw a lot of avalanche on the way. Sunshine was super strong in high altitude, particulary when it reflected on white snow we couldn't open our eyes at all. Unfortunately, our driver forgot to bring his sunglass but he was used to the strong sunlight. 

Stopped somewhere remote for simple lunch and hot spring and after 6 hours of driving we arrived in Bulunkul.  Homestay host was very nice but we didn't enjoy sleeping with whole family plus our driver altogether in the same room. Gosh, they got up at night several time and our driver snoozed loudly. The dinner was also incredible as the host fried those tiny fishes for at least 30 mins, poor fishes. And we suffered stomach ache too at night. 

 

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